Amy & Andy’s Excellent Adventure 2025 Part 2: To The (Almost!) Bottom Of The World: Buenos Aires City Tour

January 4: Where We Spend Six Whirlwind Hours Racing Around Buenos Aires To See All The Things

We had the first of our three tours scheduled for this week. Today’s was a 6-hour tour of Buenos Aires. Our tour guide’s name was Juan. Very knowledgable about Buenos Aires. He told us about the many courses he had to take to get a degree and certification as a professional tour guide. He was terrific – speaking for 6 hours in a language that is not his native tongue.

First stop – The Floralis Generica. A giant mechanical sculpture that used open and close. Unfortunately, the mechanical parts are broken and somehow a city with a huge college of engineers can’t find an engineer to fix it. Two of the petals were restored to their positions just a couple of weeks before we arrived.

Floralis Generica

Next photo op: the law school of the University of Buenos Aires.

Faculty of law building at the university of Buenos Aires

And then the seat of the Jose San Martin Institute. San Martin was the founder of Argentina, akin to George Washington for the US.

Next stop was the Paseo El Rosedal – a huge rose garden. It was too much for me to walk, so I enjoyed the sunshine while Andy and Juan went looking at roses. Here are some of the photos he took.

Here is the monument to Eva Perón – first lady of Argentina in the 1970s and 80s. She is still greatly revered in Argentina

Monument to Eva Peron

It was fitting that our next stop was the Recoleta Cemetery that is the final resting place for the rich and wealthy in Buenos Aires for the last 200 years. The cemetery is complete – the only way to get buried here is to have a family mausoleum or be somebody incredibly important. In other words – most people don’t rate.

A couple of notable mausoleums:

Tomb of Admiral William Brown, founder of the Argentinian Navy

I forgot to make note of who these people are. Juan says this is typical of the interments in this cemetery – the coffins are above ground. The only exception: Eva Perón.

And here she is. Evita is buried underground. Other family members are housed in the mausoleum.

The Recoleta cemetery was endlessly fascinating, with all the different designs

The next few stops were quick ones.

Next up: the beautiful Catedrál de Buenos Airs, where Pope Francis was the archbishop before he became pope.

Randomly, Juan asked us if we were religious. We told him we were Jewish, which triggered a surprise: an exhibit memorializing Jewish victims of the holocaust and terrorist attacks in Buenos Aires. It is the only memorial of a different faith in any Cathedral. The normal requirement to remove your hat inside the cathedral is waived in this nave, because it is Jewish custom to keep your head covered, even inside.

Our next stop was the Plaza de Mayo, the main square in Buenos Aires, created in 1884.

On our way to the neighborhood of Caminito, we stopped by the market of San Telmo. We had a fleeting thought of getting lunch in here, but that quickly evaporated. We were crushed from all sides just trying to move forward. We didn’t get very far at all before we gave up, turned around and came back out.

Entrance to the Market of San Telmo

Caminito is my new favorite city neighborhood. Home of past generations of immigrants living by the docks, it’s now a lively food/arts/party scene, with colorful buildings, fanciful cartoon figures on the street, street side cafes, and plenty of great shopping. The only problem: the streets are all cobblestone making it very painful to walk, and my transport chair can’t function.

On our way back to the hotel, Juan pointed out two more interesting landmarks.

It was 3:30 p.m. by the time we were back in our room. Juan and his driver had done a masterful job of showing us as much of this beautiful city as can be seen in six hours!

We ended up having an early dinner or maybe it was a “linner”, since we never did manage to squeeze in lunch in those 6 hours.

Tomorrow: Super crazy day – up to Iguazu Falls and back.

Amy & Andy’s Excellent Adventure 2025 Part 2: To The (Almost!) Bottom Of The World: Hasta La Vista, Celebrity Equinox!

Where We Are Gently Encouraged To Get The Heck Off The Ship So They Can Clean For The Next Batch Of Cruisers

And We Enter The Final Week Of Our South American Adventure

January 1, 2026

Day at sea. Everybody is recuperating from the night before. I realize I’ve come down with Andy’s cold.

January 2, 2026

This was supposed to be a tender day in Punta Del Este, Uruguay, with a planned excursion boat ride to see yet more sea lions do nothing. Unfortunately, the weather was rainy and windy and deemed not safe for tender operations, so the port was canceled and we have yet another day at sea. At this point, I reached that moment that I can only describe as “antsy”: too many days on a ship and – in particular – too many days at sea. On this itinerary we missed: the Magellan Straits, Punta Arenas, and now Punta del Este – about half the itinerary. Now I just want to get back to dry land, where we have more control. I spent a could chunk of the day artfully arranging vacuum packed bags in my suitcase of what’s left of my clean clothes.

January 3, 2026 Disembarkation day

Disembarkation day is always a bit of a mess, especially when we’re walking off the ship and going back to the hotel where we stayed 2 weeks before. I had arranged with the hotel for a taxi to come get us, instead of us having to stand in line for whatever taxis were available.

We had breakfast in the restaurant for the one and only time this cruise, then went to wait with other people who requested assistance navigating the incredibly steep ramp off the gangway. That process worked pretty well. I was safely deposited at the bottom of the gangway, and the bus took us back to the cruise terminal, where we found our bags. Cruise staff helped us to get our bags to the curb to wait for our taxi.

Who had no idea where we were, because we didn’t know until that very moment that we would be at Gate 3. After a bunch of back-and-forths with the hotel and the cabbie, the cabbie found us by calling me and watching to see what phone rang. Rather clever, I thought.

We arrived back at the hotel in no time, where the front desk told me they did not have a reservation for us for January 3. Um. What? This had all been confirmed several months ago. They had a reservation for June (?!?). But it was all good – they had a room available for the dates we needed it. {Side note: eventually I had the time to go back through all the correspondence and found my original email asking for “3 January 2026 through 7 January 2026”, followed by the hotel’s response confirming the dates with a confirmation number. There was another email where I used “3 Jan” instead of “3 January”; I think this is where they saw “Jan” and thought it meant “Jun”. Anyway, luckily it was not an issue.

The view from our room on December 19 was several HUGE air conditioning units. The view from this room was ever so much better.

We had lunch in the hotel’s restaurant. It’s just not our “vibe” or something. And my head cold had hit hard; nothing looked or tasted appetizing.

We went out afterwards looking for a pharmacy to buy some over the counter head cold stuff, which turned out to be more difficult than one would think. There’s no CVS-like store in Buenos Aires. The small pharmacies fill prescriptions and display skin care products. We found a bigger pharmacy that had a couple of things I was looking for.

Which called for ice cream, of course! We went back to Freddo and tried different kinds of chocolate. Still fabulous.

View from Freddo

Feeling adventuresome, we walked further away from the hotel in search of a souvenir store. The one we found didn’t have anything interesting. But it was across the street from a shopping mall, so we tried looking in there. Nothing but clothing stores. And the bathroom.

We decided to have dinner at one of the sidewalk restaurants. We picked a random steak house. We noticed a huge brick wall across the street that turned out to be the big cemetery we’ve hears so much about. That was on our list to the next day on our 6 hour city-tour.

I was fading quickly, so we went back to the hotel and I just went to bed. I hoped to shake this cold before our Big Day on Tuesday, when we fly up to Iguazu Falls and back on the same day.

Tomorrow: city tour

Amy & Andy’s Excellent Adventure 2025 Part 2: To The (Almost!) Bottom Of The World

December 25 and 26

A Visit From Santa and We Visit The Almost Bottom Of The World

December 25

Having Christmas Day being Day 3 of 3 sea days worked out well for all the little kids on board ship. Lots of games and a visit from Santa, who had a little something for every kid under the age of 17.

December 26 – Ushuaia

At long last, we are docked again!

View from our veranda. The other side of the ship saw the town itself.

We have a multi-hour excursion booked – a combo of a bus tour of the national park in Tierra Del Fuego plus a boat ride on a catamaran through the Beagle Channel. The tour groups were split into two parts – one part took the bus tour first, the other half took the boat ride first. We were assigned to the bus ride first.

One of the things I noticed right away was the way the tour guide pronounced the word “Ushuaia”. I was pronouncing it “oooshhh-why-yah”. Apparently, it’s really “OOOS-why-yah”. Learn something new every day.

Living up to its reputation for a rainy place, it drizzled the whole morning. Never really reached soaking rain status, but enough to be annoying and make the ground muddy.

We drove through the forest and stopped at several scenic spots. Because of the misty rain and humidity, it was almost impossible to see anything through the windows.

Our first stop was at Ensenada Zaratiegui

The ground was quite muddy and slippery. And when I came back from a bathroom break, the bus was no longer in the spot where it had been 5 minutes previously. I am inordinately proud of myself for being able to say “I am looking for bus 15” in Spanish and was actually understood! Apparently the bus driver pulled our bus into the exit queue. Getting to the bus required scrambling over a muddy embankment.

This was the second stop, which looked pretty similar to the first. I was too busy watching my feet in the mud to remember what the tour guide said the name of this place was. Possibly Senda Costera

Next stop was a pit stop in Alakush.

Next was Lago Roca, a lake that has three names. It’s Lago Roca on the Argentinian side, Lago Errazuriz on the Chilean side, and Lago Acigami – the indigenous name.

Our bus tour was coming to and end. The next and final stop was at the meeting point for the catamaran. The tour guide said it would be a “5 minute walk”, which of course turned out to at least feel a lot longer than that.

It was now noon. The excursion description had said nothing about what was happening with lunch. There was a little food stand on the catamaran, but the choices were ham and cheese or some dessert-something. I chose a giant chocolate cookie with a caramel center and a hot chocolate.

This map shows the route we took

We had some scenic sailing in the Beagle Channel until we reached The Lighthouse At The End Of The World

And here we are at The Lighthouse At The End Of The World!

The Lighthouse is fully automated. The sea lions just lie there. So many sea lions

Cormorants and more cormorants, everywhere are cormorants, a mixed colony of two different species. The more the merrier.

And so many sea lions! Doing absolutely nothing.

We had another 30 minutes or so to get back to the port by 2:00 p.m. We found out afterwards that there was supposed to be a catamaran only excursion at 2:10 p.m., but it was canceled, because the winds picked up to a dangerous level.

I thought I was prepared for the winds – I had many layers on under my winter coat plus my favorite ancient neck gater. I should have been good to go. Unfortunately, the catamaran had docked at the furthest end of the dock away from the ship. I started walking, got about maybe 1/4 of the way there and just stopped. I was almost walking backwards.

We decided it would be better for me to stay put while Andy went ahead and got a wheelchair to wheel me back to the ship. While I waited, I took some photos

ARA Puerto Argentino, a ship equipped to sail to Antarctica.

Watching Andy attempting to push the empty wheelchair in the fierce winds was amusing. The chair kept going everywhere but straight. He eventually gave up and picked it up to carry it. At least the wheelchair did the job – we were back on board the ship in just a couple of minutes.

The high winds delayed the ship’s departure by several hours. We were supposed to leave by 5:00 p.m., but didn’t get underway until sometime after 9:00 p.m. The wind conditions will determine exactly when we’ll arrive at Cape Horn in the morning.

Tomorrow: Scenic sailing to Almost the Bottom of the World!

Amy & Andy’s Excellent Adventure 2025 Part 2: To The Bottom Of The World (Almost)!

Quick Summary of December 18, 19, 20, and 21 Because, Quite Frankly, It’s All Been One Very, Very, Very Long Day.

So far the theme of our current adventure is: DELAY. Fortunately, nothing really terrible, but sufficient to be annoying every step of the way.

December 18

We drove from Maryland to JFK in New York to take the non-stop from JFK to Buenos Aires. We do this quite frequently: avoiding connections that increase the chance of losing luggage and just to eliminate complications is a top priority.

But the drive took much longer than it should have – 7+ hours for a 4 hour drive. Endless traffic in Maryland due to construction, Traffic in Delaware for {no idea} reasons, and then BAM! right into NYC rush hour traffic.

Once at the airport, boarding went smoothly enough, but then we sat on the ground for an extra 90 minutes while the wings were de-iced.

December 19

Once we arrived in Buenos Aires airspace, the pilot told us one run way was closed for {no idea} reasons. We landed an hour after the already updated arrival time.

Luckily, the taxi we had arranged through our hotel waited for us. Another hour to the hotel, and finally we were there.

We were staying only 1 night. Which was good, because the view from our room left much to be desired.

We did begin our quest to sample all the recommended ice cream chains in Buenos Aires.

After breakfast on December 20, the front desk called us a cab to take us to the port. We were early for our 11:00 time slot, so we just sat in the waiting room.

Boarding the ship was a little weird – after all the security protocols, we boarded a bus (a first) that took us to the ship. And then the skies opened, and it poured and poured and poured. We wondered why the ship didn’t anticipate the rain and put up tents. We certainly hadn’t anticipated it.

By the time we were finally on board, we were soaked. And our bags hadn’t arrived yet, so we couldn’t change. So we went to lunch.

After lunch we went to our muster station for the required safety training. We felt the ship moving (??). It’s not supposed to be moving. We haven’t left the dock? The crew member who reviewed the security training with us said that the rain storm had turned into a wind storm, and the ship was in danger of bashing into the dock (!), so the captain was moving away from the dock. Disconcerting, much?

After the security briefing, I wanted to talk to the excursions people to get more detailed info – sometimes the excursions are labeled “moderate” for not much reason at all.

Chatting away with the excursions guy (Luis), we noticed a ship was coming super close to ours…and BAM, it hit us, smashing a couple of the windows right in front of us. Luckily they didn’t shatter and spray glass (I’m sure that’s a planned safety feature.

After that excitement (followed by assorted people to look at the broken windows), we were able to determine that I will be able to do all of the excursions we purchased.

Before we left home, I reached out to a distant cousin who had connected to me through DNA results. We are hoping to actually see each other in Montevideo on Sunday, even if it’s just for a half hour.

5:00 p.m. comes and goes and it’s obvious we’re not leaving on time. We go to the ship’s Hanukkah celebration with Rabbi Avrom. We missed the first minute when he introduced himself, so I don’t know where he’s coming from. There’s about 40 people in the room from all over the world – England, France, Canada, US (including a family who live not far from us in DC), and Melbourne, Australia.

Particularly touching: there were a few people who were not Jewish, but came to support us as allies in the aftermath of the hideous terrorist attack in Bondi beach, Sydney. We were happy to have them!

We said blessings over electric candles, followed by jelly doughnuts and latkes. Celebrity knows how to do Hanukkah the right way!

During the evening there were several updates that didn’t say much: (1) after the wind storm, there’s now issues with refueling (2) now the ship needs final inspections (3) and finally, we’re not sailing until 10:00 a.m. on December 21 to make sure all the final safety inspections are completed.

So no meet up with my cousin, at least not on December 21.

I managed to stay awake through the evening performance of tango dancing.

When we came back to our room, we discovered our next door neighbors were having a marvelous party! I’m guessing they may not realize that the stateroom walls are paper thin and we can hear everything as if we are in the room with them.

The party died down at around midnight, which is fine, since we were no longer getting up early the next day.

But they woke me up at 4:00 a.m., which is uh-uh, nope, nope, nope. I called guest services, who came up and heard the noise from outside the door. Two minutes later, the noise stopped and both of us were out like a light.

December 21

The ship started moving a little after 10:00 a.m. We had one more update from the captain and the program director, Manuel. We’ll be arriving in Montevideo at about 10:00 p.m. tonight. There was a very cryptic mention of “in time to enjoy Montevideo night life”.

Today is a beautiful day for a sea day! Maybe we’ll be able to sit outside for a bit.

Still no info on how long we’ll be docked in Montevideo. I’m sure the excursions staff is scrambling a mile a minute to come up with something. I have full confidence They will figure something out. I’m hoping against hope to be able to meet up with my cousin!

Tomorrow: ?????

Amy & Andy’s Excellent Adventure 2025 Part 2 – ¡Holá, Buenos Aires!

No, We Haven’t Left Yet. That’s December 18.

My Alaska blog suddenly cut off, because apparently I had signed up for the free version of WordPress back in 2019 when the amount of free storage was 3 GB, and I had reached that limit. To increase the storage required starting a subscription, which I did not want to do on the ship’s wifi. At that time (back in August 2025), I figured our next trip wouldn’t be until April 2026, so why bother paying for a subscription I wasn’t going to use for 9 months?

And then we decided 9 months to our next adventure was was completely unacceptable!

We decided to book the cruise we’d been talking about for years, but never got around to doing it – the east coast of South America down to Patagonia!

Our Itinerary

Round trip from Buenos Aires, which made the airfare easier to book. Of course, this means it will be the South American summer – which is great! It’s been so cold here in Maryland for the entire month of December, that I’m looking forward to a snippet of summer.

Plus here in Maryland daylight hours are still shrinking. In South America, we’ll be back in full summer daylight, and a midnight sun in Patagonia.

We’ll be arriving on December 19, a day before we’re scheduled to board our ship, because we don’t trust the airlines at all. After we disembark the ship on January 3, we’ll be in Buenos Aires for a few more days before returning home on January 8.

Note: For about half of the trip it will be hot, and the other half it will be cold. Long range weather forecasts for Ushuaia shows highs in the 30s and rain. That’s what I bought a new rain jacket and rain pants for.

¡Vámanos!