January 6, 2026 – Where We Have A Much Less Ambitious Agenda For Today: Touring Jewish Buenos Aires
Still a bit tired from yesterday’s adventure, we waited downstairs in the lobby for today’s tour guid, Matias, who comes from the same tour company that yesterday’s tour guide came from.
Uncharacteristically, Matias is running late. A quick email to Maximo, and he tells me it was his own mistake. There are two Bel Air hotels in Buenos Aires; he sent Matias to the wrong one.
Jewish Museum of Buenos Aires
Our first stop was the Jewish Museum of Buenos Aires, documenting the Jewish community of Buenos Aires and all of Argentina back to its origins. Argentina has a long history of accepting immigrants from all over the world, similar to the US.
Front door of the Jewish Museum of Buenos Aires. High level of security – we provided passports as our ID to enter
In the 1880s, Baron Maurice de Hirsch developed the idea of Jewish settlements in the Argentinian pampas. Eventually thousands of Eastern European Jews made their way to one of these settlements, where they were initially supported and guided in their new life as farmers and ranchers. This created Jewish Gauchos, Argentinian version of the American cowboys in the US western states.
We continued on through the exhibits, all of them familiar: artifacts from synagogues, a graphic film on October 7 that we opted not to watch (preaching to the choir, here), etc. All in all, a nicely done collection of Jewish life in Buenos Aires and Argentina.
Matias also explained how the Jewish community of Argentina is tightly integrated into Argentinian society: four generations later, Jews speak Spanish, work in every kind of profession – very similar to the Jewish community in the United States.
I told Matias about my connection to Argentina: my grandmother’s brother who came to Argentina in the 1920s after the US began restricting immigration from Europe. My great-uncle eventually made his way to Montevideo, Uruguay, where he grew his family, and I have family there still! I showed Matias the photo of me with my newly discovered 3rd cousin whom we met for lunch back on December 22, 2025 (3rd day of the cruise).
The Reform and Conservative movements of Judaism came to Argentina in the 1960s. There are Reform and Conservative seminaries in Buenos Aires! The only ones in South America.
Templo Liberdad was built first. Once again, we had to provide our passports to gain access to the synagogue. Security is taken seriously in the Jewish community!
Front entrance to Templo Liberdad
Here are some photos of the interior of the Reform synagogue. The sanctuary is huge, and is still used.
This window is unusual with the Tetragrammaton – not typically depictedDon’t look too closely at how exhausted we are
Orthodox synagogue
The Orthodox synagogue felt a little more familiar and closer to what we’re used to in Conservative synagogues. In Orthodox Jewish synagogues, men and women sit separately. In this synagogue, the divider (metchitzah) is down the middle (men on one side, women on the other), instead of a more traditional separation of women sitting up in the balcony.
The stained glass windows are simple, with only Stars of David.
1992 Bomb site
We visited the memorial to the victims of the 1992 bombing of the Israeli embassy that killed 29 people (Jews and non-Jews).
1994 Bomb site
In July, 1994, the AMIA Jewish center in Buenos Aires was targeted by Hezbollah, killing 89 people – the worst Jewish disaster since the Shoah until October 7. A new building was built. Additions have been made to the building over the years, the latest being the bollards and entrance are now painted orange in memory of the Bibas family murdered after October 7.
The bollards and entrance are orange in memory of the Bibas family murdered after October 7
Garment district/frum neighborhood
Our last “stop” so to speak, was through the garment (“shmata”) district and religious neighborhoods, both of which reminded me of the garment district and Lower East Side of Manhattan (or my old neighborhood in Queens).
Our tour ended with Matias dropping us off at a recommended kosher restaurant. He helped us order. It turned out to be too much for 2 people.
After lunch we took an Uber back to the hotel to rest up for a bit. Lunch was so huge, a real dinner was out of the question. At some point hours later, we decided to walk over to Freddos and have one last ice cream. My personal favorite: Chocolate Doble Tentacion.
Hint: this was, in fact, not The Last Freddo ice cream of our visit
Tomorrow: Some time to kill in the morning, and then it’s time to head to the airport to come home.
Where, After Much Trial And Tribulation, We Tour Iguazu National Park.
January 5, 2026 We Are At Iguazu!
For reference sake, here’s a map of the Argentina side of the falls, Iguazu National Park. There are three different “circuits”.
Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo)
Upper Circuit
Lower Circuit
As we’re driving along, Emmanuel is introducing himself and telling us how the day will proceed. I also tell him about my mobility limitations and what Maximo and I agreed we would do when we get to the Lower Circuit.
Emmanuel not having any of it. He insists that all three of us will do it all. There are golf carts that can drive me down to the lower circuit. He will take care of it (contrary to Maximo’s proviso that the tour driver would not take care of it).
We arrive at the Visitor’s Center and take a bathroom break. While we’re waiting, some coatis (a/k/a “ring tailed racoons”) are wandering around looking for human food.
We and board the train towards Devil’s Throat. The ride is not that interesting, in that it’s mostly trees and we don’t see any wildlife. When we arrive at our stop, Emmanuel says the trip up to the falls and back in 90 minutes. He offers to push my chair instead of Andy (contrary to Maximo’s info). What Maximo or any other source didn’t mention is that the walk way is metal grating separated by slats. You can see them in the photo above. This makes for a bumpy ride, and upon occasion the front left wheel of my transport chair gets stuck. Eventually we resort to me walking a bit when the grating is particularly difficult.
Along the way we see a turtle sunning on a branch in the water, and a ginormous catfish.
The views from the Devil’s Throat of the Brazilian falls are as amazing as hyped.
We take a zillion more photos and head back. My chair is really struggling now, even with attempted fixes to tighten the front left wheel. Finally, Emmanuel asks us to sit in the shade at a pull-off spot for a bit. He will go back and grab one of the macho trail wheelchairs (that Maximo said were scarce and that I’d have to find myself).
While we’re waiting, a butterfly found Andy’s red hat attractive.
Natal pansy
About 20 or 30 minutes later, Emmanuel comes bounding up with the giant wheelchair. I climb into it, and he proceeds to *run* at top speed with me in the chair, bouncing all the way back to the train station, constantly and politely asking people to move to the side. Andy is somewhere behind us with my chair. Emmanuel is running, because now we’re just a bit behind schedule.
Basically – for the rest of the day, my chair is moved from one resting spot to another, while Emmanuel pushes me along in the giant chair.
We take a short break when we arrive at our next stop. We see this visitor
We take the train to the next stop, which is at the Upper Circuit. From the Upper Circuit we can see where the Brazilian Falls and the Argentinian Falls meet at an apex, and just below that is an island.
The views continue to be stunning. Note: All of these views have names, and I know Emmanuel told us the names, and I also know I remember none of them.
On the right are the Argentinian Falls, on the left are the Brazilian falls, and in the center is the island with a tiny beach.At least some of the walkway was in shade. You can see the metal grating that I wish we knew about ahead of time.White ginger lily a/k/a butterfly ginger
After the Upper Circuit, we have lunch while Emmanuel procures a golf cart. The caddy drives Andy, me, and my chair down to the bottom of the long flight of steps that I told Maximo that I couldn’t do.
The path of the Lower Circuit is a smoother concrete path. We walk all the way around, see more views, and watch one of the boats zoom right into the bottom of the falls.
This is the moment the boat enters the falls. A giant NOPE.
We circle back to the bottom of the stairs where we started.
We did it! We did all 3 circuits! It’s late now, and the rangers are coming to start closing the paths. The caddy cart comes to take us back up to where we need to exit. We spend a little time in the gift shop finding an expensive fridge magnet.
As we’re about to exit the park, a crowd spots a toucan. I can’t see it from where I’m sitting in the car, but Andy gets out and gets a photo. Some capuchin monkeys wandering around the parking lot.
ToucanCapuchin monkey with baby
It’s a relatively short drive to the airport. As promised, Emmanuel comes with us to the check-in counter and talks with the staff member about whatever the issue is about the chair. He tells her about our experience that morning with security’s odd and annoying behavior, including the security guy’s seemingly endless examination of my passport.
When I asked him to ask her why she thinks he was doing that, she says, “There was no reason for that. He’s an asshole”. Well, yes, that was my thought as well, but she’s allowed to say that out loud.
We never really find out what the issue was with the chair, but with one more unnecessary form to sign to take with us, we have new boarding passes and we are done!.
We say our goodbyes to Emmanuel, who has earned every penny of the large tip we leave him with!
We arrive at our gate (as is tradition, it’s as far away as possible at the very far end of the terminal). We finally take a close look at our boarding passes and realize we’re not flying back to the same airport where we flew from in the morning – we’re flying to the big international airport. Maximo has it all under control – our driver knows where to pick us up.
The two hour flight to Buenos Aires is uneventful. We expected to have to pick up the chair at baggage like we did in the morning, but it’s waiting for me outside the plane door – inside a scissor bus, where another wheelchair person is waiting. Apparently there was a walk down a flight of steps to the tarmac, and the scissor bus rescued us from having to do that walk. This airline seems to be a bit more on the ball than JetSMART when it comes to assistance!
Our driver is waiting for us; 40 minutes later we are back at the hotel. We left at 4:00 a.m. that morning, and we arrived back at about 10:15 p.m.
What a completely insane and totally magnificent day!
January 5: Where Insanity Manifests Itself In A One Day Up-And-Back Visit To Iguazu Falls
And The Tale Is SO LONG, I’m Breaking It In Two
Part 1: Booking Iguazu
Iguazu Falls National Park is in the very north of Argentina with the border of Brazil. Thinking that this might be our one and only chance to see these falls, we decided we’d figure out how to do it.
Similar to Niagara Falls having an American side and a Canadian side, Iguazu Falls has an Argentinian and Brazilian sides. Many people do an overnight stay to see both sides. This was not going to work for us, because:
By the time of our visit in early January, we will have been gone from home for almost three weeks. We knew we’d be running on fumes. And it would just be time to go home.
The logistics of arriving in Buenos Aires and staying in a hotel, then packing up and schlepping all the bags onto a plane to Iguazu (with no tour guide to help), stay at a hotel in Iguazu, visit Iguazu, then turn around and schlep all the bags BACK to Buenos Aires – well, that sounded exhausting just typing it.
We didn’t want to deal with getting a visa to visit Brazil for one day.
The challenge was finding a tour company who would provide a private an all-in-one up-and-back package. It wasn’t easy, but I found one through Get Your Guide. They, of course, contract it out to somebody else. The somebody else is BATourguide.com.ar.
August 2025
I reached out to BATourguide to begin the conversation. The challenge always is: my mobility issues. For walking long distances, Andy drives me in a transport chair (a wheelchair with 4 small wheels).
The person I was dealing with was Maximo Yedid. The description of the tour said: “Not wheelchair accessible”. I needed to know exactly what that meant, especially since the Iguazu Falls website said explicitly that wheelchairs are available.
Obstacle #1: As in many cases, Maximo said the cars used to transfer people around do not have a wheelchair lift. I said, no problem, I don’t need a wheelchair lift. I have a small chair and it folds even smaller to fit in most trunks.
Obstacle #2: Maximo brought up was the supposed scarcity of loaner wheelchairs, and it would be up to you to get one; that’s not the guide’s job. I said, no problem, I’ll bring my own. {Note: in 20/20 hindsight, it would have been good for Maximo to tell me the surface of the trails are metal slats that are a bit of a problem for a wheelchair with little wheels, but I digress}.
Obstacle #3: the tour guide is not going to push you. No problem, I said, my husband will do that.
Obstacle #4: I won’t be able to do the lower circuit, because it requires climbing down a very long flight of stairs. No problem, I said – if there’s a cafe where I can get something to eat, access a bathroom, and sit in a shady spot, I can wait for Andy and the tour guide to do the lower circuit and I’ll just see the photos later. We do this ALL THE TIME.
Obstacle #5: We won’t have time to do the boat ride. No problem, I have zero interest in this boat ride that takes you right into the falls and you are soaked. Nope, no thank you.
I’m guessing he was concerned about the liability of dealing with a customer with mobility issues. But at this point, Maximo ran out of obstacles. I booked the (non-refundable) excursion for January 5, 2026.
Maximo booked the flights and sent me the info. I asked him if he told the airline about my personal wheelchair. No, of course not, I had to do that. {I was beginning to sense a bit of passive/aggressive stuff going on here}. No problem. I called the airline (JetSMART, an affiliate of American Airlines) and set it all up. Easy peasy.
November 3, 2025
JetSMART sent me an email in early November to notify me that our return flight was cancled and rescheduled for 10:30 p.m. Maximo rebooked us on an Aerolineas Argentina flight instead at 7:30 p.m.. I was able to add “wheelchair assistance” to the reservation via the website. No problem, good to go.
December 26, 2025
We are on our cruise. I receive an email from Maximo regarding an email Aerolineas Argentina sent him asking for information about my chair. The phone interface created a jumbled mess.
The Spanish isn’t even the problem here.
Fortunately, on my computer it appeared fine. I used google translate to make sure my understanding of the Spanish was correct.
They wanted to know whether the chair is motorized or is manual (manual), its dimensions, weight, etc. PLUS they wanted photos of the chair folded up and a photo of brake locking mechanism.
AND they wanted something called a “sworn statement” that supposedly is in the chair’s user manual. The chair’s user manual is in Maryland and there doesn’t seem to be an online version of it. I have no memory of seeing a “sworn statement” in the paper version.
I sent an email to the airline asking what a “sworn statement” was, but I never received an answer. Google said it was a form needed for motorized wheelchairs guaranteeing the battery was safe.
Except there is no battery because this is a manual wheelchair. I couldn’t figure out why they included this requirement in a form for a manual chair. It made absolutely no sense.
I filled out the form as best I could and sent it in 5 days before the excursion asking for confirmation of receipt of the email. No response.
January 4, 2026
Part 2 Getting To Iguazu
Maximo checks us into the morning flight and sends us our boarding passes. I have no way to print them off, so the PDFs will have to do.
I was in bed by 8:30 the night before. We were up at 3:00 a.m. We had our backpack packed and our clothes laid out. We were downstairs in the lobby waiting for the driver at 3:50 a.m.
Our driver arrives right at 4:00 a.m. It’s a 15 minute drive to the local domestic airport. The driver drops us off at departures, and we’re on our way!
Because we have nothing to check, we head straight to security. They kinda notice Andy is pushing me in the chair, so they sorta scoot us around to the priority line. We send the backpack, my purse, etc. through the machine. My chair and I go around the metal detector for the manual inspection. A woman security person pats me down. All this is perfectly routine.
And this is where the fun begins.
Suddenly, it’s apparent that I must be The First Person In Argentina to ever bring my own private wheelchair to this airport. This is a major sticking point. They couldn’t believe it. This is yours? Yes, it’s mine. Your personal chair? Yes, it’s mine. Not the airport’s? No, it’s mine.
Mind you – all this is in Spanish, and I’m proud to say that my barely awake brain was able navigate the “This is my chair” sentence as many times as I needed to say it.
The woman security person is now poking at my chair (seriously poking it), looking at my name tags as if they held nuclear secrets, opening the name tags to see the bits of paper in them, and the Apple air tag in one of them. Multiple times, touching the tags opening the tags, looking at the bits of paper, looking at my Airtag.
What in creation is going on here?
Then another security guy asks for my passport. Of course, if a security guy asks for your passport, you give him your passport. This is a non-issue.
He proceeds to examine my passport literally page by page – I am not making this up – holding each page so close to his face I thought he would eat it. Both sides of each page. The whole passport. Every page. Multiple times. Over and over and over again. I sure hope he enjoyed seeing all the stamps from all the places I’ve been!
I’m not saying a word at this point. Nor am I showing any emotion at all. My inside voice is going crazy with all sorts of scenarios, but outwardly, I show nothing.
Security guy continues to hold my passport and randomly look at pages, the dates, the scan code, etc. Many supervisors are contacted. As one supervisor is brought out, that one contacts the next one up, and the next one up, until there are at least 2 if not 3 supervisors involved.
My guess at this point:
Somebody decided to randomly give a 72 year old grandma from the US a hard time for reasons completely unknown. Maybe they were bored.
That person questioned the chair as some security something-something.
Typically, once a low-rung security person commits to something, even if it’s 100% wrong, all the security people up and down the food chain will back the low-rung guy.
It seemed like hours, but I’m pretty sure it was about 10 minutes, when finally a supervisor high enough up takes one look at me in my chair and tells everybody to give me back my passport and let me go on my way.
Still with me?
We go to the gate, which is, of course, as far away as possible, as is tradition. The gate staff show up, and we ask about the gate check of the chair. No problem at all. They put a baggage tag on it.
While we’re waiting to board, I get another email from Maximo saying that he can’t check us into the return flight. He suspects it has something to do with the chair. He says our tour guide will come with us to check in and figure it out for us. Sounds like a plan
Andy and I are first to go down the ramp – to find out that we are taking a bus to the plane! Ok, no problem, we get on the bus to go to the plane. I position myself in the chair in an open space for wheelchairs.
It’s a very crowded bus. Out of nowhere, another security guy in an yellow vest literally shouts at me:
“JOO! What joo doing here!” It’s obvious his English doesn’t particularly exist.
I said, “Going to the plane, why else would I be here?”
“Joo no be here!”, he said.
“How else do I get to the plane?”, I said. I’m beginning to think that the gate staff should have called for assistance to get me to the plane instead of me taking the bus, but I don’t know how I would have known that.
Yellow vest guy disappears for a few seconds, then comes back and says, “Joo OK!”
The bus takes us to the plane. We get to climb up a flight of steps. Mr. Yellow Vest is there and now he’s all concerned. He motions for me to stand in a certain place and tells me when to start climbing the steps. “Joo ok? Need help?”. No, I’m fine, thank you.
I’m halfway up the steps with Yellow Vest behind me (which is fine, always good to have a spotter), and he occasionally asks me “Joo ok?”. I guess he, too, is feeling guilty for plaguing an 72 year old grandma who just wants to get on the fricking plane.
Fortunately, the flight itself is fine. Though what’s weird is when the flight attendants offer food for sale, Andy and I are never offered anything, as if they don’t see us. We’re sitting in the first row.
It’s only a two hour flight, and it’s fine. We arrive in Iguazu. What we didn’t realize is they actually checked my chair into luggage under the plane, and now we need to retrieve it from the carousel.
Finally, finally, we walk out looking for somebody holding a sign with our name. There’s a guy there holding a sign, but the name is completely wrong. Eventually he asks us if we were there for a one day tour, and we say yes, and I give him my name. AH HAH, he finds us, he had looked at the wrong booking, it’s all good.
He introduces himself as Emmanuel, and now the good part starts.
January 4: Where We Spend Six Whirlwind Hours Racing Around Buenos Aires To See All The Things
We had the first of our three tours scheduled for this week. Today’s was a 6-hour tour of Buenos Aires. Our tour guide’s name was Juan. Very knowledgable about Buenos Aires. He told us about the many courses he had to take to get a degree and certification as a professional tour guide. He was terrific – speaking for 6 hours in a language that is not his native tongue.
First stop – The Floralis Generica. A giant mechanical sculpture that used open and close. Unfortunately, the mechanical parts are broken and somehow a city with a huge college of engineers can’t find an engineer to fix it. Two of the petals were restored to their positions just a couple of weeks before we arrived.
Floralis Generica
Next photo op: the law school of the University of Buenos Aires.
Faculty of law building at the university of Buenos Aires
And then the seat of the Jose San Martin Institute. San Martin was the founder of Argentina, akin to George Washington for the US.
Jose San Martin Institute – he was the George Washington of Argentina in 1820
Next stop was the Paseo El Rosedal – a huge rose garden. It was too much for me to walk, so I enjoyed the sunshine while Andy and Juan went looking at roses. Here are some of the photos he took.
Circle of Poets
Here is the monument to Eva Perón – first lady of Argentina in the 1970s and 80s. She is still greatly revered in Argentina
Monument to Eva Peron
It was fitting that our next stop was the Recoleta Cemetery that is the final resting place for the rich and wealthy in Buenos Aires for the last 200 years. The cemetery is complete – the only way to get buried here is to have a family mausoleum or be somebody incredibly important. In other words – most people don’t rate.
A couple of notable mausoleums:
Tomb of Admiral William Brown, founder of the Argentinian Navy
I forgot to make note of who these people are. Juan says this is typical of the interments in this cemetery – the coffins are above ground. The only exception: Eva Perón.
And here she is. Evita is buried underground. Other family members are housed in the mausoleum.
The Recoleta cemetery was endlessly fascinating, with all the different designs
Tomb of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak – killed at age 26 in an avalanche while she was on her honeymoon
The next few stops were quick ones.
Treatro Colón – opera house and theaterPalacio de JusticeThe obelisk – a monument commemorating the 400th anniversary of the establishment of Buenos Aires
Next up: the beautiful Catedrál de Buenos Airs, where Pope Francis was the archbishop before he became pope.
Pipe organFloor mosaicMain altarpiece Catedral de Buenos AiresDome above San Martin’s tombTomb of San Martin – liberator of Argentina, Chile, and Peru, all represented by the statues on each side of the tomb. The tomb is always guarded by 2 honor guards who change off every 2 hours
Randomly, Juan asked us if we were religious. We told him we were Jewish, which triggered a surprise: an exhibit memorializing Jewish victims of the holocaust and terrorist attacks in Buenos Aires. It is the only memorial of a different faith in any Cathedral. The normal requirement to remove your hat inside the cathedral is waived in this nave, because it is Jewish custom to keep your head covered, even inside.
Our next stop was the Plaza de Mayo, the main square in Buenos Aires, created in 1884.
Monument to General Manuel Belgrano, creator of the Argentinian National flagMarch Of Stones – dedicated to the victims of COVID on August 16, 2021Changing of the guard at San Martin’s tombEvita’s balcony. Madonna was filmed singing on this balcony in the movie version of the stage productionCasa Rosada – the seat of the Argentine federal government
On our way to the neighborhood of Caminito, we stopped by the market of San Telmo. We had a fleeting thought of getting lunch in here, but that quickly evaporated. We were crushed from all sides just trying to move forward. We didn’t get very far at all before we gave up, turned around and came back out.
Entrance to the Market of San Telmo
Caminito is my new favorite city neighborhood. Home of past generations of immigrants living by the docks, it’s now a lively food/arts/party scene, with colorful buildings, fanciful cartoon figures on the street, street side cafes, and plenty of great shopping. The only problem: the streets are all cobblestone making it very painful to walk, and my transport chair can’t function.
People line up to take their photo under the “Messi” with the World CupGuy cosplaying as a tango dancer
On our way back to the hotel, Juan pointed out two more interesting landmarks.
Puente de La Mujer – a rotating footbridge built in honor/tribute to womenThe ARA Presidente Sarmiento, an historic naval training vessel
It was 3:30 p.m. by the time we were back in our room. Juan and his driver had done a masterful job of showing us as much of this beautiful city as can be seen in six hours!
We ended up having an early dinner or maybe it was a “linner”, since we never did manage to squeeze in lunch in those 6 hours.
Tomorrow: Super crazy day – up to Iguazu Falls and back.
A Visit From Santa and We Visit The Almost Bottom Of The World
December 25
Having Christmas Day being Day 3 of 3 sea days worked out well for all the little kids on board ship. Lots of games and a visit from Santa, who had a little something for every kid under the age of 17.
Looking down at the Grand FoyerCovering all the basesWinter Wonderland in the Grand FoyerThe Grand FoyerSanta distributing giftsCloseup of decorationDessert at dinner with happy message
December 26 – Ushuaia
At long last, we are docked again!
View from our veranda. The other side of the ship saw the town itself.
We have a multi-hour excursion booked – a combo of a bus tour of the national park in Tierra Del Fuego plus a boat ride on a catamaran through the Beagle Channel. The tour groups were split into two parts – one part took the bus tour first, the other half took the boat ride first. We were assigned to the bus ride first.
One of the things I noticed right away was the way the tour guide pronounced the word “Ushuaia”. I was pronouncing it “oooshhh-why-yah”. Apparently, it’s really “OOOS-why-yah”. Learn something new every day.
Living up to its reputation for a rainy place, it drizzled the whole morning. Never really reached soaking rain status, but enough to be annoying and make the ground muddy.
We drove through the forest and stopped at several scenic spots. Because of the misty rain and humidity, it was almost impossible to see anything through the windows.
Our first stop was at Ensenada Zaratiegui
The ground was quite muddy and slippery. And when I came back from a bathroom break, the bus was no longer in the spot where it had been 5 minutes previously. I am inordinately proud of myself for being able to say “I am looking for bus 15” in Spanish and was actually understood! Apparently the bus driver pulled our bus into the exit queue. Getting to the bus required scrambling over a muddy embankment.
This was the second stop, which looked pretty similar to the first. I was too busy watching my feet in the mud to remember what the tour guide said the name of this place was. Possibly Senda Costera
Next stop was a pit stop in Alakush.
Upland geese mated pair male with white head and female with brown headlake frontThere was a gift shop, too!
Next was Lago Roca, a lake that has three names. It’s Lago Roca on the Argentinian side, Lago Errazuriz on the Chilean side, and Lago Acigami – the indigenous name.
Lago RocaLago Roca
Our bus tour was coming to and end. The next and final stop was at the meeting point for the catamaran. The tour guide said it would be a “5 minute walk”, which of course turned out to at least feel a lot longer than that.
I couldn’t find a name for this mountainA bit of a political statementOn the way to the catamaranDifferent view of the same scenic mountain, whatever it isThe catamaran
It was now noon. The excursion description had said nothing about what was happening with lunch. There was a little food stand on the catamaran, but the choices were ham and cheese or some dessert-something. I chose a giant chocolate cookie with a caramel center and a hot chocolate.
This map shows the route we took
We had some scenic sailing in the Beagle Channel until we reached The Lighthouse At The End Of The World
And here we are at The Lighthouse At The End Of The World!
The Lighthouse is fully automated. The sea lions just lie there. So many sea lions
Cormorants and more cormorants, everywhere are cormorants, a mixed colony of two different species. The more the merrier.
And so many sea lions! Doing absolutely nothing.
We had another 30 minutes or so to get back to the port by 2:00 p.m. We found out afterwards that there was supposed to be a catamaran only excursion at 2:10 p.m., but it was canceled, because the winds picked up to a dangerous level.
I thought I was prepared for the winds – I had many layers on under my winter coat plus my favorite ancient neck gater. I should have been good to go. Unfortunately, the catamaran had docked at the furthest end of the dock away from the ship. I started walking, got about maybe 1/4 of the way there and just stopped. I was almost walking backwards.
We decided it would be better for me to stay put while Andy went ahead and got a wheelchair to wheel me back to the ship. While I waited, I took some photos
the Bark Europa, a classic sailing ship that operates globallyARA Puerto Argentino, a ship equipped to sail to Antarctica.
Watching Andy attempting to push the empty wheelchair in the fierce winds was amusing. The chair kept going everywhere but straight. He eventually gave up and picked it up to carry it. At least the wheelchair did the job – we were back on board the ship in just a couple of minutes.
The high winds delayed the ship’s departure by several hours. We were supposed to leave by 5:00 p.m., but didn’t get underway until sometime after 9:00 p.m. The wind conditions will determine exactly when we’ll arrive at Cape Horn in the morning.
Tomorrow: Scenic sailing to Almost the Bottom of the World!
My Alaska blog suddenly cut off, because apparently I had signed up for the free version of WordPress back in 2019 when the amount of free storage was 3 GB, and I had reached that limit. To increase the storage required starting a subscription, which I did not want to do on the ship’s wifi. At that time (back in August 2025), I figured our next trip wouldn’t be until April 2026, so why bother paying for a subscription I wasn’t going to use for 9 months?
And then we decided 9 months to our next adventure was was completely unacceptable!
We decided to book the cruise we’d been talking about for years, but never got around to doing it – the east coast of South America down to Patagonia!
Our Itinerary
Round trip from Buenos Aires, which made the airfare easier to book. Of course, this means it will be the South American summer – which is great! It’s been so cold here in Maryland for the entire month of December, that I’m looking forward to a snippet of summer.
Plus here in Maryland daylight hours are still shrinking. In South America, we’ll be back in full summer daylight, and a midnight sun in Patagonia.
We’ll be arriving on December 19, a day before we’re scheduled to board our ship, because we don’t trust the airlines at all. After we disembark the ship on January 3, we’ll be in Buenos Aires for a few more days before returning home on January 8.
Note: For about half of the trip it will be hot, and the other half it will be cold. Long range weather forecasts for Ushuaia shows highs in the 30s and rain. That’s what I bought a new rain jacket and rain pants for.