December 29 2025: Stanley, Falkland Islands
By all reports, today was going to be a challenging day. We were taking an excursion to Bluff Cove, a privately owned beach cove known to be the home of two penguin species: King and Gento.
We were warned that the weather might be windy, raining, and very cold (max 45F). Port Stanley was a tender port, meaning that we have to climb into a smaller boat to take us to shore. We were warned that the wait for a tender to return to the ship might take up to two hours.
So we bundled up in many layers. The forecast didn’t call for rain at all, so we took the chance and left the rain gear behind in the room.
The sky was very overcast and it was a bit chilly when we arrived at the tender dock in Port Stanley.
Our “bus” was a large van. The driver provided a two-step up into the van making it easy to climb in. She drove us directly to the Bluff Cove within 20 feet of the penguins.
The first thing we noticed: it wasn’t cold, rainy or windy. It felt a lot warmer than 45F. The sky cleared up and the sun was out. It was quite a beautiful day!
We first walked over to the King penguins. This group was away from the beach up on a small hill. Some of them were incubating eggs – you can tell by the way their feet are hidden by a pouch of skin. Some were just staring into space. These birds are huge. They are close to 3ft tall. They wander wherever they want at their own pace, completely oblivious to what these silly humans are doing.
The second group of King penguins were all the way down on the beach of the cove. A ranger said in previous years the beach cove is where all the King penguins lived. For some unknown reason this year a group split off and moved inland to the top of the small hill.
The penguins ignored us completely. We had white flag markers to show us how close we could get to them, but we were able to walk within just a few feet. Three king penguins nonchalantly toddled up from the beach and passed right by us to join the others.
Right next door were the gentoos in a much larger and noisier group.
Andy found this sad remainder of a gentoo egg. The ranger said it probably had been snatched by a predator.
Other birds we saw on the beach:
Andy went to explore more of the beach while I caught a ride with a ranger dow to the cafe and gift shop.
I had heard from a couple of sources that the bathrooms were absolutely gorgeous and worth a visit just to see them.
I bought a bunch of stuff at the gift shop and then caught up with Andy. We went into the cafe for our free treats.
I loved the old stoves used to heat the buildings.
Here I am all bundled up and a bit overheated standing next to…not sure what this collection of objects is supposed to be:
This is a photo of “sea cabbage” – the vegetation that lives in the sand by the beach. The name of the cafe is the “Sea Cabbage Cafe”.
Our driver returned right on time to take us back to the port. We saw some random sheep wandering around.
Back at the port, we decided to wander around for a bit. Before we went anywhere, I found a bathroom where I took off 3 of the 4 layers. The air temperature felt very close to 60F, no matter what the weather app said.
We went to a gift shop and bought more souvenirs. The next block down was the Christ Church Cathedral, the southernmost cathedral in the world. Andy went inside to take a look.
After this we decided to return to the ship. We walked right onto a waiting tender – no wait at all.
What a fantastic day, far exceeding all expectations!
Tomorrow: A day at sea.
Day after tomorrow: Puerto Madryn, where we will go on another wildlife cruise, and the temperatures will be back into the mid 70s.
Maryland Meshugas 